JALA JAMDANI

A modernized variation of Jamdani wherein a 'jala' or a frame on which the motif is first created on a graph twice the size it appears on the fabric, and then attached to the loom as a master harness. This harness lifts the warp threads and facilitates the insertion of the supplementary thread of Jamdani discontinuously.

Design and Innovation

  • Gaurang’s journey in textile design began in Uppada, one of India’s oldest and most respected weaving centres, known for its simple yet graceful Jamdani sarees crafted in cotton, Tussar, and silk.

    Traditionally, Uppada sarees featured repetitive motifs of 3 to 4 inches along the length of the drape. Gaurang transformed this visual language by expanding the design graph to an unprecedented 40" x 40", unlocking a new realm of intricacy and artistic freedom.

    This breakthrough allowed for the creation of modern, bold designs where the repeat pattern is almost imperceptible—giving the illusion of a continuous, evolving motif across the saree. Paired with vibrant new colour palettes and lustrous silk yarns, the once-muted aesthetic of the Uppada saree was elevated into a glowing example of contemporary finesse and timeless luxury.

    From its humble roots to its radiant reinvention, Uppada remains the cornerstone of Gaurang’s design journey—a canvas where tradition was first reimagined.
  • This weaving centre is celebrated for its mastery in fine cotton handlooms, home to some of India's most skilled and dedicated artisans. Under Gaurang's direction, this tradition has not only been preserved but profoundly reimagined.

    A significant transformation began with the expansion of the design graph from 20" to 40" x 40", allowing for greater intricacy and depth in pattern creation. Gaurang also led efforts to revive the use of high-count cotton yarns, reintroducing the tradition of weaving with 120-count and above, bringing back the lost elegance of India’s famed fine cottons.

    Select master weavers were further trained in the delicate and demanding technique of Kagazi Jamdani—a rare art where a full 6-meter-long design is hand-drawn without repetition and placed beneath the warp threads to guide the weaving process. This meticulous approach has enabled the creation of cotton sarees so intricate in design and so diaphanous in texture, they echo the legendary muslins once said to float like mist and pass through rings.

    Through deep collaboration and innovation, Gaurang has transformed this centre into a haven of lightness, heritage, and exquisite craftsmanship, where every cotton saree becomes a whisper of India's timeless textile legacy.

KAGAZI JAMDANI

A paper or 'kagaz' depicting the design is placed under the weft threads, for the weaver's reference, watching the weaver weaves, using only intuition and skill to convert paper into fabric. This technique can recreate any design of any length, allowing for intricacies that can change every centimeter.

Design and Innovation

  • Today, Srikakulam stands proudly as one of the finest Jamdani weaving centres in India. However, when Gaurang first began working here, the landscape was quite different. Weavers were producing assembly-line designs featuring small ‘bootis’ and narrow dobby borders, lacking the finesse and grandeur their craft was capable of.

    Gaurang encouraged the weavers to return to their heritage of fine weaving, introducing modern, contemporary designs that challenged traditional norms. The craft was further elevated by incorporating new colours and diverse yarns into the motifs, and the sarees were enriched with pure gold and silver zari, adding a spectacular sheen and opulence.

    Weavers were also trained in the Kanjeevaram technique of interlocking yarns on the loom, enabling the creation of solid contrast pallus that dramatically transformed the region’s sarees. This innovation gave Srikakulam sarees a distinctive resplendence, setting them apart as uniquely luxurious and sophisticated.

    Over time, the sector has nurtured such masterful artisans that Gaurang was able to undertake a remarkable feat—recreating Raja Ravi Varma’s iconic paintings on the loom, blending art and craft in a breathtaking tapestry of tradition and innovation.