YANTRA JAMDANI

Jacquard - a handmade contraption or 'yantra' that uses stiff punch cards similar to the reels in mechanical music boxes - lifts the warp threads according to the design pattern. Since the weaver does not have to lift the warp, this technique makes it possible to create greater details on the motif.

Design and Innovation

  • When Gaurang first visited Kota, it was not recognized as a centre for Jamdani weaving. Yet, the potential was unmistakable. The technique was rich with possibility, though largely confined to repetitive cotton sarees lacking innovation.

    With a vision to elevate this overlooked craft, Kota sarees were reinterpreted through luxurious textures such as silk, muga, tussar, and organza—breathing new life into the weave.

    The design vocabulary expanded dramatically. From contemporary florals and intricate geometrics to delicate Mughal bootas and timeless temple borders, the range of expression grew. This was made possible by increasing the loom's design graph from 20x20 inches to 40x40 inches, enabling far greater intricacy and detail.

    A complete transformation also took place in colour. Traditional hues gave way to elegant pastels, woven with lustrous metallic threads that shine against sheer backgrounds—creating motifs that shimmer with every movement.

    To further enrich the craft, Gaurang introduced the three-shuttle technique of Kanchipuram weaving to Kota artisans. This allowed for sarees where the body is in fine cotton Kota, while the borders are silk-on-silk—interlocked seamlessly to create one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

    What once was a modest weaving town now stands tall as a hub of innovation and elegance. Each Kota saree, under Gaurang's vision, is a triumph of revival, artistry, and imagination.